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After six years and several spin-offs (La Calaca Feliz, Taqueria Feliz), the original Cantina in Fort Washington remains the best of the Feliz family from Brian Sirhal and chef Tim Spinner, who’ve created here one of the region’s most satisfying Nuevo Mexican dining experiences, blending a colorful, casual space with outgoing service, excellent tequila cocktails, myriad fresh guacamole variations and a menu built to please a broad audience.
A recent shellfish night featuring lemon spaghetti and shrimp in spicy ‘Nduja sauce, then gorgeous scallops with sweet corn and peppers, was a convincing reminder that Blackfish’s creative spark is still bright.
The chef changed his name to Francis Pascal (from Trzeciak) when the Aix-en-Provence native became an American citizen four years ago.
He’s finally hired some help on the kitchen line, and begun expanding the menu, and even opened a pastry shop and café, Butter Scotch (1406 Hollow Rd.), across the street to feature Jane Urban’s croissants and desserts. And then there are the gorgeous summer rolls whose supple rice paper wrappers are stuffed with delicately poached lobster marinated in Korean chilies and honey, and then posed over a creamy lobster bisque enriched with port and saffron.
Most significant, though, he has happily married another restaurateur, Nui Kullana of Phoenixville’s Thai L’Elephant, and the cross-cultural influences have begun to appear in his cooking. It’s a decidedly Gallic flourish for an Asian inspiration, but in this sweet bucolic corner, it’s the genuine taste of a talented chef embracing the latest chapter in his life.
Ten years ago, Chip Roman’s first bistro gave Conshohocken a sophisticated taste of the New American BYOB movement and became a trendsetter in suburban dining.
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